The Best Way Series No. 16 Coat

Although in my last post on the 1919 Best Way coat I had developed a beautiful Art Nouveau pattern, that I was going to attempt to work in embroidery and soutache cord on the coat. I have to confess that I have had a complete change of mind and I am now underway on a completely different path. I do listen to you my precious darlings, and have decided on an applique design, made from flowers cut from a cotton chintz, and old doilies. For those who don't know, chintz is a cotton fabric with a shiny surface or glaze, often printed in bright vibrant patterns, and this one is no exception.

I have four identical doilies or tray cloths like this one.

The applique work is quite wonderful, skillfully and finely done. The colours worked well with the brown hounds tooth, and as the cloths have the odd stain and are a little worn, I decided it was Oswald Kojak to cut them up.

I cut rough shapes of the area the applique should cover out of tissue paper, 8 in all.

And started laying out the cut out fabric pieces onto the tissue.

I thought you might like to see the Pattern Instructions for The Best Way Coat.

The instructions are all printed on one page.

This is the pattern that I adapted in an attempt to create the coat I wanted in this magazine. I figured the basic block would be fairly similar in all the coats. However I am having trouble with the sleeve. I made up a toile, and the sleeve just isn't sitting right, not sure what to do. Message to all other sewers who read this blog, the worst thing about making clothes for yourself, is the fitting if you do not have a friend to help.