May McCutcheon

This is a family photograph of my Great Grandmother, May McCutcheon, with a group of seven girls holding bamboo and paper fans.  Isn't it the most wonderful image?  Written on the backing board of the picture is: "May McCutcheon with class of fan dancers 1905 Hawkes Bay.  The photograph is mounted in the frame so that it is sitting against the glass, which has caused the surface of the photograph to break down and adhere to the glass where the pale blue marks are.   

Written above the photograph on the brown card the photograph is mounted on:

"These gave a fan drill item at the school concert"

and on the lower edge of the photograph: Pukahui.  

I love the dress May is wearing, and would love to recreate it, I know I say that all the time.

The photograph does not show all the detail of the dress, or what colour it is. but I love the gathered sleeves, with their wide lace frills. 

The girls are dressed in full gathered dresses with deep lace on their sleeves, and sashes across their shoulders that tie on the side at their waists.  There is a special name for these, but I just can't remember what it is, points for any clever darling who can though.

Don't you love the gathered sleeve with its little bow and lace frill?

The dresses look like they are made of soft cottons, maybe a muslin or lawn.

May's Vestee

This lace front belonged to May, and was recently given to me by an Aunt.  It inspired me to find out a little more about my Great Grandmother, who died before I was born.  The lace front was pinned on with the same safety pins you can see on the lower edge, and my Aunt remembers watching her pin it on under her jacket.

May's lace front is similar to the "Vestee" in this advertisement from a 1930 Sear's Catalogue,and it is likely to be from this era or a little earlier.  

A detail of the design on the lace.  If you want help identifying lace, the Powerhouse Museum in Sydney has a great reference for lace identification on its website: http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/pdf/research/classification.pdf

A close up of the right side of the embroidered machine made net, or needle run lace.

A close up of the back of the fabric.

A La Mode: Dunedin Art Gallery

I was recently in Dunedin and lucky enough to catch the exhibition advertised above,

A la Mode: Fashions of the Early Nineteenth Century. The framed hand-coloured etchings from Ackerman's Repository were exquisite, and I fell in love with this era of fashion, particularly with the decade from 1800 to 1810, with its "Classical forms", soft lines, and wonderful detailing.

Unfortunately I missed the presentation by Dress Historian Jane Malthus.

Rudolph Ackermann was best known for the periodical he started in 1809, The Repository of Arts, Literature, Commerce, Manufactures, Fashion and Politics. This monthly magazine, which lasted until 1828, included articles and illustrations of all sorts, especially on fashion, social and literary news. Fashion plates were included in every issue, and some also included patterns and fabric samples. The magazine became eagerly anticipated by society women and had a huge influence on the fashion of the day. By the end of its run, Ackermann had published almost 1,500 hand-colored plates in the Repository, and there is no better visual source as to the nature of Regency society than these wonderful prints.

Image photographed from Dunedin Art Gallery's, A La Mode, exhibition brochure. From Rudolph Ackerman's The Repository of Arts, Literature, Fashions, Manufacturers, &c. Hand-coloured etching on paper. Vol. 5, Feb. 1, 1811.

This was one of my favourite etchings, and I want this coat!!!! It is a carriage dress or travelling dress: a military coat or pelisse of amber coloured velvet, or merino cloth with Spanish cuffs, and high fluted collar, trimmed entirely round with Astracan fur. A round tippet of the same, and reticule composed of the same material as the coat. An Alerine helmet cap of the same, blended with Astracan fur, ornamented in front with an amber crescent and chain of silver. Gloves a pale tan colour and half boots of amber coloured kid.

I have no idea what Alerine refers to, if anyone can give me any idea I would be interested to find out. (I know I am such a geek). Astracan fur, could be a different spelling of Astrakhan fur, which comes from the Karakul sheep, an ancient breed, from Uzbekistan. The very young or even fetal lambs are prized for their pelts, dark in colour with tight coils of fur.

Image taken from Dunedin Art Gallery's, A La Mode, exhibition brochure. From Rudolph Ackerman's The Repository of Arts, Literature, Fashions, Manufacturers, &c. Hand-coloured etching on paper, Second series Vol IV, July 1, 1817.

Evening dress 1817. A plain white gauze dress, over a white satin slip.

Image photographed from Dunedin Art Gallery's, A La Mode, exhibition brochure. From Rudolph Ackerman's The Repository of Arts, Literature, Fashions, Manufacturers, &c. Hand-coloured etching on paper. Second series Vol. II, Nov. 1, 1816.

Morning Dress 1816

A morning dress was only worn at home, and only in the presence of one's family. I have to say, I wouldn't wear this hideous outfit out of the house either.

Image photographed from Dunedin Art Gallery's, A La Mode, exhibition brochure. From Rudolph Ackerman's The Repository of Arts, Literature, Fashions, Manufacturers, &c. Hand-coloured etching on paper. Second series Vol. VI, Nov. 1, 1825.

Garden Costume 1825

This dress fits into the walking or promenade gown classification. These were always the most fashionable, with beautiful trimmings, and worn during social times when out and about.

Image found on internet from Ackerman's Repository.

Image found on internet from Ackerman's Repository.

Image from Costume Calvacade, by Hansen.

473 - Turban, tunic over chemise gown with train, 1801. 474 and 475 are the same gown - Chemise gown with velvet train falling with sleeveless waistcoat, also 1801.

Well what do you think my precious darlings, do you love the carriage coat, or is it a flop with you. Now if only I could find some velvet in a beautiful yellow shade and something that resembled Astracan fur, I couldn't kill those poor little baby lambies, oh no not me.

From Belle Epoch to Modern Woman

Inside this Supplement of the Weldon's Journal, published in 1935 in celebration of the Royal Jubilee is a wonderful story of how things had changed for women.

During WWI women had picked up the work that men had normally done, filling their shoes with confidence.

Prior to the war, they had dressed like this, but things were about to change.

For women, things would never be the same again.

Hats from the 1700's

What was going on back in the 1700's?

The 1700's have long been my favorite fashion era, and I thought my precious darlings might enjoy a little look at some of the most lavish and decorative head gear ever worn.

Grey hair was quite the vogue.

J'avais une poof sur ma tete.

Its not too much is it?

Oh the sumptuous elegance of these wonderful hats. Do you love them, or are they just too much?

1950's Underthings

What was going on under there?

A kind friend who knew I was interested in the history of fashion and costume, gave me a collection of Seventeen magazines from the 1950's, that she had kept since her teenage years. Thank you Briar, they are real treasures and I would like to feature some images from them here. What a wonderful era of fashion the 50's were. Dior's New Look, and the end of WWII, drew women back to domesticity, femininity, and sexuality. The look drew its inspiration in many ways from the 1850-60's in the Victorian era, and women were encouraged to look demure and passive.

And those tiny waists, what was going on under there?

This Featherlight-4-in-1 Flex-o-lette has boning inserted in the seams, making it quite similar in construction to the corsets of the Victorian era.

You could even purchase crinoline type petticoats, made modern and young with a new name - Hoop-la.

And massive frilled petticoats to hold the skirt out further, to make the waist look even smaller.

New fabrics were being developed, and women were no longer prepared to suffer discomfort and lack of movement to fetish their waistline.

Rubber was first transformed into a textile fabric in the 1930's and the first fabrics were known as Lastex.

Don't you love this image, we always want to have it all don't we. So my precious darlings now you have a little insight into how the 1950's women achieved those tiny waists and pencil slim figures. Come back soon and I will show more of the wonderful dresses from the little collection of Seventeen magazines that I have. There are a couple I would love to sew for myself, I might put those up soon and you could tell me what you think. Kiss kiss my darlings until next time.

Seventeen Magazines Swimwear in the 1950's

Hallo my pale darlings, well summer is almost upon us and to put us in the mood I have some wonderful swimwear from the 1950's.

If you are still feeling all locked up by winter, well now its time to rock your way into summer.

I love this international number, yes darling this was what they were wearing in Paris that summer.

Wild things!

And of course there were hats for the seaside too.

And bags.

Have a great summer my lovelies.