A La Mode: Dunedin Art Gallery

I was recently in Dunedin and lucky enough to catch the exhibition advertised above,

A la Mode: Fashions of the Early Nineteenth Century. The framed hand-coloured etchings from Ackerman's Repository were exquisite, and I fell in love with this era of fashion, particularly with the decade from 1800 to 1810, with its "Classical forms", soft lines, and wonderful detailing.

Unfortunately I missed the presentation by Dress Historian Jane Malthus.

Rudolph Ackermann was best known for the periodical he started in 1809, The Repository of Arts, Literature, Commerce, Manufactures, Fashion and Politics. This monthly magazine, which lasted until 1828, included articles and illustrations of all sorts, especially on fashion, social and literary news. Fashion plates were included in every issue, and some also included patterns and fabric samples. The magazine became eagerly anticipated by society women and had a huge influence on the fashion of the day. By the end of its run, Ackermann had published almost 1,500 hand-colored plates in the Repository, and there is no better visual source as to the nature of Regency society than these wonderful prints.

Image photographed from Dunedin Art Gallery's, A La Mode, exhibition brochure. From Rudolph Ackerman's The Repository of Arts, Literature, Fashions, Manufacturers, &c. Hand-coloured etching on paper. Vol. 5, Feb. 1, 1811.

This was one of my favourite etchings, and I want this coat!!!! It is a carriage dress or travelling dress: a military coat or pelisse of amber coloured velvet, or merino cloth with Spanish cuffs, and high fluted collar, trimmed entirely round with Astracan fur. A round tippet of the same, and reticule composed of the same material as the coat. An Alerine helmet cap of the same, blended with Astracan fur, ornamented in front with an amber crescent and chain of silver. Gloves a pale tan colour and half boots of amber coloured kid.

I have no idea what Alerine refers to, if anyone can give me any idea I would be interested to find out. (I know I am such a geek). Astracan fur, could be a different spelling of Astrakhan fur, which comes from the Karakul sheep, an ancient breed, from Uzbekistan. The very young or even fetal lambs are prized for their pelts, dark in colour with tight coils of fur.

Image taken from Dunedin Art Gallery's, A La Mode, exhibition brochure. From Rudolph Ackerman's The Repository of Arts, Literature, Fashions, Manufacturers, &c. Hand-coloured etching on paper, Second series Vol IV, July 1, 1817.

Evening dress 1817. A plain white gauze dress, over a white satin slip.

Image photographed from Dunedin Art Gallery's, A La Mode, exhibition brochure. From Rudolph Ackerman's The Repository of Arts, Literature, Fashions, Manufacturers, &c. Hand-coloured etching on paper. Second series Vol. II, Nov. 1, 1816.

Morning Dress 1816

A morning dress was only worn at home, and only in the presence of one's family. I have to say, I wouldn't wear this hideous outfit out of the house either.

Image photographed from Dunedin Art Gallery's, A La Mode, exhibition brochure. From Rudolph Ackerman's The Repository of Arts, Literature, Fashions, Manufacturers, &c. Hand-coloured etching on paper. Second series Vol. VI, Nov. 1, 1825.

Garden Costume 1825

This dress fits into the walking or promenade gown classification. These were always the most fashionable, with beautiful trimmings, and worn during social times when out and about.

Image found on internet from Ackerman's Repository.

Image found on internet from Ackerman's Repository.

Image from Costume Calvacade, by Hansen.

473 - Turban, tunic over chemise gown with train, 1801. 474 and 475 are the same gown - Chemise gown with velvet train falling with sleeveless waistcoat, also 1801.

Well what do you think my precious darlings, do you love the carriage coat, or is it a flop with you. Now if only I could find some velvet in a beautiful yellow shade and something that resembled Astracan fur, I couldn't kill those poor little baby lambies, oh no not me.